Chloe’s recent trip through Namibia took her from the dunes of Sossusvlei to the elephants of Damaraland. What follows is her account, in her own words.
Before travelling to Namibia, I’d been looking forward to the open spaces, desert light and variety of landscapes. Since my return, these are the elements that have stayed with me.
This is a destination for travellers drawn to space, scale and contrast. It’s less about one particular lodge or headline sight than the way each place reveals a different side of the country: the soft light around Windhoek, the orange dunes of Sossusvlei, the stillness of the NamibRand, the coast at Swakopmund and the dry, rocky landscapes of Damaraland.
The distances are part of the experience, as are the shifts in colour, temperature and terrain along the way.
We began at Gmundner Lodge, just outside Windhoek, which works very well as a first night after a long flight. It is close enough to the airport to feel easy, but once you turn off the main road and drive along the dirt track, it already feels like the journey has begun. The lodge sits on a ridge, with views over the landscape and a waterhole in the distance.
My first morning there was spent riding at sunrise, with the land still slightly damp, animals beginning to move through the bush and giraffes crossing our path as the light slowly turned golden.
From there, we drove towards Sossusvlei, passing through small valleys before moving further into the desert and into the NamibRand Nature Reserve. Camp Sossus reflects the colours of the area very naturally: orange, rust and red earth, with open sky all around. It is pared back and landscape-led, with one of its loveliest details being the bed on the terrace, where you can lie outside beneath the stars before falling asleep.
The Sossusvlei excursion begins early, with the aim of reaching the gate for sunrise.
Driving between the great orange dunes, passing Dune 45 and seeing hot air balloons rising in the distance, you begin to understand the scale of the place. Near Deadvlei, Big Daddy dune rises above the desert. The climb is demanding in places, but manageable, and the view from the top is worth the effort: dune after dune stretching into the distance.
Our visit was made especially unusual by the recent rains. We saw water in front of the dunes, something we were told had not happened for around ten years. Standing in Deadvlei afterwards, surrounded by those strong contrasts of colour, felt surreal.
The desert continued at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where the setting felt more remote and secluded.
One of the most memorable experiences was the Solitude Experience: finding a place in nature simply to sit, look and listen as the day moved into evening. I also went riding again, with just my guide, on a cloudy afternoon that turned to rain. By morning, after a thunderstorm in the night, the air was crisp, the colours more intense and the desert felt different again.
Swakopmund brought a new energy. After the desert, arriving at the coast felt like a brief return to civilisation. We walked along the pier with the dunes of Walvis Bay visible in the distance, where sand meets ocean.
Damaraland was one of the real highlights of the trip. The scenery changes again here: dry, open and rocky, with long white grasses and small hills. At the end of the day, the light turns golden across the plains, giving the area a calm, grounding quality.
We stayed at Onduli Ridge and spent time at Onduli Enclave, the private home. It is a beautiful, tasteful space, looking out over the open plains. That evening there was a full moon, with the sun setting and the moon rising on the same axis – a very special moment.
The next morning, we visited the rock engravings at Twyfelfontein before continuing in search of desert-adapted elephants.
After following footprints throughout the day, we found a breeding herd feeding in the trees and covering themselves with dust against the sun. We spent time watching their family dynamics and learning how they are adapted to this harsher environment, travelling long distances in search of water.
Our final stop was Zannier Omaanda, not far from Windhoek airport. Set within a reserve, it worked well as a gentle final night after several days on the road. We arrived to warthogs on the way in, a warm welcome from the hosts and, later, fires and lanterns lit across the property as the temperature dropped.
What I loved most about Namibia was not one single sight, but the combination of scale, changing landscapes and small, specific moments: riding at sunrise, sleeping beneath the stars, seeing water in the dunes, reaching the coast after days in the desert and the special light and grounding atmosphere of Damaraland.
For the right traveller, Namibia is a wonderful journey. It suits those who enjoy landscape, light, open roads, active days and the feeling of moving through very different environments.
If Namibia is a destination you are considering, please get in touch at [email protected]. I will be very happy to share more about my recent journey.