South Africa has long been associated with the bold reds of Stellenbosch, but the Cape’s wine story is far broader and more complex than that well-established narrative.
Across the Western Cape, a new generation of winemakers is drawing greater attention to terroir-driven wines, working in small batches from carefully selected plots and prioritising quality over volume. Many have adopted a Burgundy-inspired approach, focusing on single-vineyard expressions for their top wines.
I travel to the Cape regularly. My personal passion for wine, and for seeking out smaller, more individual producers, has taken me there twice in the last few months. On both trips I deliberately moved beyond Stellenbosch and Franschhoek to meet winemakers and taste wines from lesser-known, niche producers.
Most of these wines are known mainly by connoisseurs and remain hard to find. They are largely allocation wines, going to those who specifically seek them out, with very little ending up on ordinary shop shelves. Your best chance is in certain Cape Town wine bars, such as Tannin on Bree Street, or Culture Wine Bar just across the road – or in the city’s best restaurants.
Hemel-en-Aarde
About two hours east of Cape Town, near Hermanus, the Hemel-en-Aarde region is known for its cool-climate wines.
The area is particularly well suited to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, though you will also encounter the occasional Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage or even Syrah.
There are established names such as Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Bouchard Finlayson and Creation Wines. Where it becomes especially interesting are the smaller producers: Storm Wines, Crystallum Wines, Restless River and Alheit Vineyards.
I particularly loved Hannes Storm’s Vrede Pinot Noir from Storm Wines – probably the most Burgundy-like Pinot I have tasted in South Africa.
Chris Alheit’s Chenin Blancs from Alheit Vineyards are also special. Here, the proximity to the ocean gives them a distinctive minerality that feels precise and refreshing.
Swartland
On the other side of Cape Town, just inland from the west coast, the Swartland offers a completely different character. Hot and dry, with stunning open landscapes, the region is particularly known for its Syrah.
I was fortunate to spend a morning at Mullineux Family Wines, tasting some of their single-terroir Chenin Blancs and Syrahs. Another highlight was an afternoon with Markus Sadie of Sadie Family Wines. Both producers make some of the most highly regarded wines in South Africa.
What the Sadies have built is remarkable: the winery feels inseparable from their way of life; there is no degree of separation. Their flagships, Palladius (white) and Columella (red), go somewhat against the single-terroir grain in that they aim to capture the best of the Swartland in a single bottle – and they do.
Another winemaker I met and would like to mention is Jean Smit of Damascene. His wines come from sites across the Western Cape – from the Swartland to Hemel-en-Aarde and beyond. That is very much his philosophy: not a single region, but the Western Cape itself, seeking the best expression of each location.
What stood out most for me throughout my visits were the people; their hospitality and warmth, humility and dedication to their work.
There is a real sense of collaboration among these producers, a shared commitment to making South African wine better with each passing year. That was encouraging to see, and I have no doubt they will continue to do so.
I will be very happy to share more about my recent journey. If you’re interested in discussing South African wines, I would love to continue that conversation. Email me at [email protected], I look forward to hearing from you.